от: Юра.
А можно ли считать зуйкофилами людей, делающих из Зуек монокли?
нуу.... всякие бывают извращения :)...
Вход для зуйкофилов бесплатный...
Всего 4059 сообщ.
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Показаны 201 - 220
Re[Юра.]:
нуу.... всякие бывают извращения :)...
Re[]:
Паша! Ау! Расскажи про зуйковский монокль.
Re[Юра.]:
Можно услышать чего-нибудь про Zuiko 28mm/F3.5?
Re[Beny]:
от: Beny
Можно услышать чего-нибудь про Zuiko 28mm/F3.5?
Если только не можете себе позволить 28/2.0.....
Re[Zuikovod]:
от: Zuikovod
Если только не можете себе позволить 28/2.0.....
То...?
Я не то чтобы позволить не могу, просто заинтересовался Зуйками; есть предложение ОМ-1 без оптики за копейки и есть 28/3,5 + 135/3,5 тоже занедорого. 28/2.0 просто пока не видел предложений, да и немного их в Израиле. Искать же где-то за пределами, не зная точно чего, не хочется. Хотя, если 28/2.0 действительно много лучший вариант, можно от первого отказаться в принципе. Пока не найду 28/2.0.
Re[Beny]:
от:Beny
То...?
Я не то чтобы позволить не могу, просто заинтересовался Зуйками; есть предложение ОМ-1 без оптики за копейки и есть 28/3,5 + 135/3,5 тоже занедорого. 28/2.0 просто пока не видел предложений, да и немного их в Израиле. Искать же где-то за пределами, не зная точно чего, не хочется. Хотя, если 28/2.0 действительно много лучший вариант, можно от первого отказаться в принципе. Пока не найду 28/2.0.Подробнее
Меня сейчас побьют, но вот мой вам совет: берите то, что доступно. У Олимпуса бывает иногда раброс по качеству оптики (все же 20-30 лет прошло), но в целом плохой оптики нет. Отбейте тестовую пленку и все поймете сами.
Re[tombo]:
28/2 - наверное, очень хорош, но уже в другой весовой категории. Могу сказать, что 28/3.5 - отличный объектив для съемки при достаточном освещении. (Именно после того, как немного поснимал им, безо всяких сожалений продал свой 17-40 и оставил на цифре только 50 и теле-)
Моя увлечениея зуйками началась именно с него, уже потом были более светосильные, других фокусных. Даже сейчас на стене - два снимка А3 - осень и весна, сделанные именно им.
ЗЫ Кстати, Beny, что-то Вы давно на rangefinder.ru ничего не выкладывали :)
Моя увлечениея зуйками началась именно с него, уже потом были более светосильные, других фокусных. Даже сейчас на стене - два снимка А3 - осень и весна, сделанные именно им.
ЗЫ Кстати, Beny, что-то Вы давно на rangefinder.ru ничего не выкладывали :)
Re[J14]:
Петр, J14 , спасибо. Пожалуй, так и сделаю, начну с него. В принципе, 28 на ОМ-е мне больше интересен для пейзажа, так что светосила не критична, важнее рисунок. Для уличного жанра есть дальномерки и Мамия ТЛР.
:D Я последнее время чего-то на 6х6 подсел, а сканировать нечем, только печатаю. Стыдно сказать, из-за нее уже месяца два не могу проявить пару 135 пленок, отснятых дальномерками
Может, чего из старого покопаюсь...
Кстати, спасибо, что напомнили, там как раз есть топик про ОМ-систему. Пойду почитаю
от: J14
ЗЫ Кстати, Beny, что-то Вы давно на rangefinder.ru ничего не выкладывали :)
:D Я последнее время чего-то на 6х6 подсел, а сканировать нечем, только печатаю. Стыдно сказать, из-за нее уже месяца два не могу проявить пару 135 пленок, отснятых дальномерками
Может, чего из старого покопаюсь...Кстати, спасибо, что напомнили, там как раз есть топик про ОМ-систему. Пойду почитаю
Re[J14]:
По поводу увлечений только Зуйками.Енто дело временное,проходящее,по большей части тупое,поскольку за узостью кругозора и чрезмерным увлечением одним,совершенно упускаете из виду прелести иного, в данный момент непонятного Вам.Ежели к самому себе и к своим увлечениям относиться с некоторой иронией,с пониманием временности и преходящности этого,тогда будет все интереснее,разнообразнее.Не все зуйки хороши и есть куча объективов, очень интересных, других фирм.
Re[zenon]:
Тут у многих ребят по 2...3 системы.
Лично у меня три зеркальных системы 135: Никон, ОМ и М42. Две среднеформатные: Мамия РБ и Пентакон-Киев Б. А также десятки несистемных камер, включая дальномерки и раскладушки и прочее.
КТО ВАМ СКАЗАЛ, ЧТО МЫ КРОМЕ ЗУЙКО НЕ ВИДИМ НИЧЕГО?
Между прочим, оптика ОМ - не самое плохое увлечение, которое бывает в жизни. По-крайней, мере не такое накладное, как Лейка или Цейсс. А качество выше всяких похвал.
Лично у меня три зеркальных системы 135: Никон, ОМ и М42. Две среднеформатные: Мамия РБ и Пентакон-Киев Б. А также десятки несистемных камер, включая дальномерки и раскладушки и прочее.
КТО ВАМ СКАЗАЛ, ЧТО МЫ КРОМЕ ЗУЙКО НЕ ВИДИМ НИЧЕГО?
Между прочим, оптика ОМ - не самое плохое увлечение, которое бывает в жизни. По-крайней, мере не такое накладное, как Лейка или Цейсс. А качество выше всяких похвал.
Re[Юра.]:
up
Re[ZENON]:
Не пытайся объять необъятное... (С) Козьма Прутков
Re[tombo]:
И еще вопрос к уважаемым владельцам ОМ-1, в котором замер корректно работает только со старыми ртутными батарейками. Это как-нибудь лечится?
Re[Beny]:
Ставьте спокойно современную батарейку, а на лимбе светочувствительности плёнки введите коррекцию на 1...1,5 ступени. Вместо 100 - 200 или 320.
Мне кажется это проще, чем вскрывать нижнюю крышку и впаивать понижающий диод.
Мне кажется это проще, чем вскрывать нижнюю крышку и впаивать понижающий диод.
Re[tombo]:
То есть кроме линейного смещения никаких проблем нет?
И это смещение постоянно при любой освещенности?
Так действительно и делают на практике?
И это смещение постоянно при любой освещенности?
Так действительно и делают на практике?
Re[tombo]:
HOW TO CONVERT AN OM1/1N to use a Silver Oxide 357 Cell
(Germanium Series Diode Method)
File: OM1DiodeVer2.1C © T.Hughes 1999,2000,2001,2002,2003
As an alternative to the no compromise calibration modification given elsewhere,
a Germanium diode in series with the battery may be used. This is a little easier to
install, as it does not require top plate removal. Accuracy at high EV values will be
lower and there will be some small meter non-linearity. (approx 0.4EV, and some small
temperature sensitivity) This modification is essentially the same as using a (Criscam)
MR9 adapter, but building it into the camera.
The 1N34A should be a very easy part to get as it is widely used by school kids
for making "crystal" radios (see Diodes Sources at end of this document)
Before using the diode, trim it's leads shorter and apply solder so they
are tinned making it easy to solder into the camera. Some of the diodes can be rather
large and the leads may need dressing to fit around parts in the camera base. Cover any
exposed lead as needed with an insulating sleeve or heatshrink tubing to stop it shorting
to adjacent metal.
To make the modification all you need to do is remove the base plate
(4 screws, see attached drawing ) and find the black plastic part that holds the negative
side of the battery (under the battery plate on base plate). This has a wire (brown on
newer OM’s) on its edge (which actually connects to the metal strip spring on the black
plastic) .
Remove the screw that holds the battery spring strip connected to the wire.
Carefully remove the spring. Do not lose the insulating washer and screw. Removing
the screw and spring prevents damaging (melting) the plastic pieces when soldering
wires to the spring strip end. Desolder the brown wire from the spring strip. Tin the
spring strip. Solder the diode in series between the wire and the contact where it had
been connected. The marker line on the diode should be nearest the spring (this is
important, as the meter won't work if you get it wrong, although no harm is done). The
metal strip can sometimes be difficult to resolder. If so, use a file or fine sandpaper to
remove or roughen the nickel coating. This may help when tinning the strip prior to
soldering the diode. If you are unable to tin the strip this way you can try using acid
flux for tinning the strip. However you must then wash and brush (old toothbrush) the
tinned strip very well or the acid flux will attack the new joint you make causing long
term reliability problems. Using acid flux is a last resort as it is very tough to clean
properly. Pass the diode lead through and bend back around the spring strip to
improve the electromechanical connection when soldered. Solder the diode to the
tinned strip with rosin core solder. Insulate the wire with tape or shrink tubing.
Reassemble spring strip and insulating washer back into camera. Note: You may find
it easier to remove the complete black plastic battery holder when performing this modification.
Always use resin core electrical solder on the wire or diode never use acid
core solder or flux.
Put a piece of foam in the battery holder with a cutout hole to stop the 357 silver
oxide battery from rattling around. Sometimes the wire from the battery holder is
corroded. If so, clean and "tin" the section with solder, before soldering to the diode. If
very badly corroded, strip back and replace a section of wire with new wire
APPENDIX: Comments and detailed tests on using Different Ge diodes:
(Some selected posts I submitted to the Olympus mail List)
(Note errors measured with diode modification could be reduced slightly if the meter
fine trim mechanical calibration were performed at ~EV 17, but linearity errors would
still remain)
TESTS on an OM1N:
OM1N current consumption is less than 1uA under completely dark and cool conditions.
(meter switched on, with eyepiece taped over and lens cap on.)
This implies if the camera is stored in a really dark cupboard it makes almost no
difference if the meter is left on or not as the battery should still last more than 2.5 years.
This may not be as true at high temperature.
OM1N Current Consumption with a mercury cell (1.35V)
Ambient temperature of test: 18 deg C
Note: meter current consumption is dependent only on light intensity (not on aperture,speed
setting or ASA settings).
Current Consumption does depend on lens maximum aperture since metering is at full
aperture.
Sealed eyepiece AND lens cap <1uA
EV2 (F2,1sec,100ASA) 16 uA
EV7 (F2.8,1/15sec,100ASA) 86 uA
EV16 (F16,1/250sec,100ASA) 471 uA
EXPOSURE ERRORS VERSUS BATTERY VOLATGE:
Test settings: ASA 100 (except as noted), OM1N using 50mm,F1.4 lens
Light source incandescent with diffuser
The camera meter was balanced at a battery voltage of 1.35V
The “battery” voltage then varied and the meter rebalanced using speed and/or aperture rings.
Approximate errors in stops were then estimated from the balance change with voltage. This
calibrates the sensitivity to battery voltage error at a given light level.
Note: Reference Mercury battery voltage : 1.35V
Nominal Silver Oxide Cell voltage : 1.55V (often closer to 1.6V if new)
Voltage match setting current error
1.6V F2/1sec 15uA 0stop
1.55V F2/1sec 14.7uA * 0stop
1.4V F2/1sec 13.1uA 0stop
1.35V F2/1sec 12.7uA * REF
1.25V F2/1sec 11.7uA 0stop
1.6V F5.6, 0.5sec 71uA -0.8stop
1.55V F5.6, 0.5sec 69uA* -0.8stop
1.45V F5.6, 0.6sec 64uA -0.2stop
1.35V F5.6, 0.8sec 59uA* REF
1.25V F5.6, 1.0sec 54.4uA +0.2stop
1.6V F5.6, 1/40sec 167uA -1.2stop
1.55V F5.6, 1/35sec 162uA* -1.0stop
1.4V F5.6, 1/22sec 150uA -0.6stop
1.35V F5.6, 1/17sec 140uA* REF
1.25V F5.6, 1/12sec 130uA +0.7stop
1.60V ASA 50,F18, 1/1000sec 486uA –3.2stop
1.55V ASA 50,F14, 1/1000sec 480uA* –2.8stop
1.45V F12, 1/1000sec 448uA –0.6stop
1.35V F8.6, 1/1000sec 418uA* REF
1.25V F5.6, 1/1000sec 387uA +1.0stop
ERRORS USING VARIOUS ADAPTER DIODES
Adapter using :
4 schottky diodes (1N5711) in parallel to create higher current diode
Input 1.55V silver oxide cell
current OutVoltage error
EV2 12.7uA 1.35V 0 stop
EV6 57uA 1.31V 0 stop
EV7 135uA 1.29V +0.4stop
EV16 400uA 1.26V +0.8stop
Using a Germanium Junction Diode (transistor C-E junction)
Estimated Performancefor Ge “Diode” :
EV16 0.42mA 1.35V +0 stops
EV8 0.15mA 1.38V -0.5 stops
EV6.5 0.1mA 1.40V -0.2 stops
EV6 0.05mA 1.42V -0.2 stops
EV2 0.015mA 1.45V -0 stops
Estimated performance using series resistor of about 500Ohm
(actual resistor value would be set depending on the particular camera)
Input 1.55V silver oxide cell (Note Error over wide range)
EV current OutVoltage error
EV16 400uA 1.35V +0 stops
EV8 200uA 1.45V -0.6 stops
EV7 135uA 1.47V -0.8 stops
EV6 63uA 1.52V -0.8 stops
EV2 15uA 1.54V +0 stops
Estimated performance when using Schottky Power diode (eg 1N5918)
EV16 1.425 0.44mA -1.2 stops
EV8 1.46V 0.16mA -0.8 stops
EV6.5 1.47V 0.1mA -0.6 stops
EV6 1.48V 0.05mA -0.2 stops
EV2 1.46V 0.015mA -0 stops
Comments: Because the battery voltage sensitivity error is lower at low Light levels,
correcting the error at maximum light levels, tends to reduce errors fairly well over the
whole range. This is helpful when using diodes too, as the leakage currents are less
significant than at low light levels. At high light levels having too low a simulated battery
voltage introduces slightly less error than if the error in voltage were on the high side.This
helps reduce the errors from the low power schottky diodes which drop too much voltage at
maximum light levels.
===============================================================
TESTED OM1 ERRORS (1N34A) in stops at approx EV’s :
194mV @0.409mA EV16 0 stop
165mV @0.197mA EV8 -0.5 stop
125mV @0.100mA EV6.5 -0.35 stop
100mV @0.062mA EV6 -0.2 stop
70mV @0.023mA EV2 -0.1stop
(63-90mV for different diodes at low current)
Tests on 9 , 1N34A diodes from Radio Shack ( part#276-1123 )
Diode voltage @ current
213mV @ 0.558mA
221mV “
216mV “
218mV “
212mV “
210mV “
204mV “
203mV “
206mV “
173 mV @ 0.27mA
175 mV “
165 mV “
168 mV “
182 mV “
173 mV “
185 mV “
177 mV “
235mV @1.100mA
How reproduceable are different types of Diodes?
Ideal Diode for OM1 camera conversion drops about 200mV at 0.5mA
=============================================================
Tests on 5 Schottky, 1Amp power diodes (1N5818)
At 0.52mA voltage drop: 0.127-0.132V
At 0.20mA voltage drop 0.101-0.109V
At 0.05mA voltage drop 0.065-0.070V
===========================================
Test on 4 different Germanium Transistors
Using C-B junction (2N1305) (i.e. used as a diode)
At 0.52mA voltage drop 0.198-0.205V
At 0.20mA voltage drop 0.163-0.172V
At 0.15mA ~0.155 estimated
At 0.10mA 0.15V estimated
At 0.05mA voltage drop 0.127-0.130V
===========================================
Test on 3 different 1N5711’s low power schottky diodes
At 0.52mA voltage drop 0.308-0.325V
At 0.20mA voltage drop 0.295-0.320V
At 0.05mA voltage drop 0.255-0.270V
===========================================
Test on 4 parallel connected 1N5711 schottky diodes
At 0.52mA voltage drop 0.274V
At 0.20mA voltage drop 0.261V
At 0.05mA voltage drop 0.224V
Estimated Errors using a 1.4V Zinc/air "Wein cell")
EV3 0 stop
EV6 -0.1 stop
EV 7 -0.6 stop
EV 16 -0.6 stop
Unfortunetly cell life is very short once trhe cell has been unsealed.
(Germanium Series Diode Method)
File: OM1DiodeVer2.1C © T.Hughes 1999,2000,2001,2002,2003
As an alternative to the no compromise calibration modification given elsewhere,
a Germanium diode in series with the battery may be used. This is a little easier to
install, as it does not require top plate removal. Accuracy at high EV values will be
lower and there will be some small meter non-linearity. (approx 0.4EV, and some small
temperature sensitivity) This modification is essentially the same as using a (Criscam)
MR9 adapter, but building it into the camera.
The 1N34A should be a very easy part to get as it is widely used by school kids
for making "crystal" radios (see Diodes Sources at end of this document)
Before using the diode, trim it's leads shorter and apply solder so they
are tinned making it easy to solder into the camera. Some of the diodes can be rather
large and the leads may need dressing to fit around parts in the camera base. Cover any
exposed lead as needed with an insulating sleeve or heatshrink tubing to stop it shorting
to adjacent metal.
To make the modification all you need to do is remove the base plate
(4 screws, see attached drawing ) and find the black plastic part that holds the negative
side of the battery (under the battery plate on base plate). This has a wire (brown on
newer OM’s) on its edge (which actually connects to the metal strip spring on the black
plastic) .
Remove the screw that holds the battery spring strip connected to the wire.
Carefully remove the spring. Do not lose the insulating washer and screw. Removing
the screw and spring prevents damaging (melting) the plastic pieces when soldering
wires to the spring strip end. Desolder the brown wire from the spring strip. Tin the
spring strip. Solder the diode in series between the wire and the contact where it had
been connected. The marker line on the diode should be nearest the spring (this is
important, as the meter won't work if you get it wrong, although no harm is done). The
metal strip can sometimes be difficult to resolder. If so, use a file or fine sandpaper to
remove or roughen the nickel coating. This may help when tinning the strip prior to
soldering the diode. If you are unable to tin the strip this way you can try using acid
flux for tinning the strip. However you must then wash and brush (old toothbrush) the
tinned strip very well or the acid flux will attack the new joint you make causing long
term reliability problems. Using acid flux is a last resort as it is very tough to clean
properly. Pass the diode lead through and bend back around the spring strip to
improve the electromechanical connection when soldered. Solder the diode to the
tinned strip with rosin core solder. Insulate the wire with tape or shrink tubing.
Reassemble spring strip and insulating washer back into camera. Note: You may find
it easier to remove the complete black plastic battery holder when performing this modification.
Always use resin core electrical solder on the wire or diode never use acid
core solder or flux.
Put a piece of foam in the battery holder with a cutout hole to stop the 357 silver
oxide battery from rattling around. Sometimes the wire from the battery holder is
corroded. If so, clean and "tin" the section with solder, before soldering to the diode. If
very badly corroded, strip back and replace a section of wire with new wire
APPENDIX: Comments and detailed tests on using Different Ge diodes:
(Some selected posts I submitted to the Olympus mail List)
(Note errors measured with diode modification could be reduced slightly if the meter
fine trim mechanical calibration were performed at ~EV 17, but linearity errors would
still remain)
TESTS on an OM1N:
OM1N current consumption is less than 1uA under completely dark and cool conditions.
(meter switched on, with eyepiece taped over and lens cap on.)
This implies if the camera is stored in a really dark cupboard it makes almost no
difference if the meter is left on or not as the battery should still last more than 2.5 years.
This may not be as true at high temperature.
OM1N Current Consumption with a mercury cell (1.35V)
Ambient temperature of test: 18 deg C
Note: meter current consumption is dependent only on light intensity (not on aperture,speed
setting or ASA settings).
Current Consumption does depend on lens maximum aperture since metering is at full
aperture.
Sealed eyepiece AND lens cap <1uA
EV2 (F2,1sec,100ASA) 16 uA
EV7 (F2.8,1/15sec,100ASA) 86 uA
EV16 (F16,1/250sec,100ASA) 471 uA
EXPOSURE ERRORS VERSUS BATTERY VOLATGE:
Test settings: ASA 100 (except as noted), OM1N using 50mm,F1.4 lens
Light source incandescent with diffuser
The camera meter was balanced at a battery voltage of 1.35V
The “battery” voltage then varied and the meter rebalanced using speed and/or aperture rings.
Approximate errors in stops were then estimated from the balance change with voltage. This
calibrates the sensitivity to battery voltage error at a given light level.
Note: Reference Mercury battery voltage : 1.35V
Nominal Silver Oxide Cell voltage : 1.55V (often closer to 1.6V if new)
Voltage match setting current error
1.6V F2/1sec 15uA 0stop
1.55V F2/1sec 14.7uA * 0stop
1.4V F2/1sec 13.1uA 0stop
1.35V F2/1sec 12.7uA * REF
1.25V F2/1sec 11.7uA 0stop
1.6V F5.6, 0.5sec 71uA -0.8stop
1.55V F5.6, 0.5sec 69uA* -0.8stop
1.45V F5.6, 0.6sec 64uA -0.2stop
1.35V F5.6, 0.8sec 59uA* REF
1.25V F5.6, 1.0sec 54.4uA +0.2stop
1.6V F5.6, 1/40sec 167uA -1.2stop
1.55V F5.6, 1/35sec 162uA* -1.0stop
1.4V F5.6, 1/22sec 150uA -0.6stop
1.35V F5.6, 1/17sec 140uA* REF
1.25V F5.6, 1/12sec 130uA +0.7stop
1.60V ASA 50,F18, 1/1000sec 486uA –3.2stop
1.55V ASA 50,F14, 1/1000sec 480uA* –2.8stop
1.45V F12, 1/1000sec 448uA –0.6stop
1.35V F8.6, 1/1000sec 418uA* REF
1.25V F5.6, 1/1000sec 387uA +1.0stop
ERRORS USING VARIOUS ADAPTER DIODES
Adapter using :
4 schottky diodes (1N5711) in parallel to create higher current diode
Input 1.55V silver oxide cell
current OutVoltage error
EV2 12.7uA 1.35V 0 stop
EV6 57uA 1.31V 0 stop
EV7 135uA 1.29V +0.4stop
EV16 400uA 1.26V +0.8stop
Using a Germanium Junction Diode (transistor C-E junction)
Estimated Performancefor Ge “Diode” :
EV16 0.42mA 1.35V +0 stops
EV8 0.15mA 1.38V -0.5 stops
EV6.5 0.1mA 1.40V -0.2 stops
EV6 0.05mA 1.42V -0.2 stops
EV2 0.015mA 1.45V -0 stops
Estimated performance using series resistor of about 500Ohm
(actual resistor value would be set depending on the particular camera)
Input 1.55V silver oxide cell (Note Error over wide range)
EV current OutVoltage error
EV16 400uA 1.35V +0 stops
EV8 200uA 1.45V -0.6 stops
EV7 135uA 1.47V -0.8 stops
EV6 63uA 1.52V -0.8 stops
EV2 15uA 1.54V +0 stops
Estimated performance when using Schottky Power diode (eg 1N5918)
EV16 1.425 0.44mA -1.2 stops
EV8 1.46V 0.16mA -0.8 stops
EV6.5 1.47V 0.1mA -0.6 stops
EV6 1.48V 0.05mA -0.2 stops
EV2 1.46V 0.015mA -0 stops
Comments: Because the battery voltage sensitivity error is lower at low Light levels,
correcting the error at maximum light levels, tends to reduce errors fairly well over the
whole range. This is helpful when using diodes too, as the leakage currents are less
significant than at low light levels. At high light levels having too low a simulated battery
voltage introduces slightly less error than if the error in voltage were on the high side.This
helps reduce the errors from the low power schottky diodes which drop too much voltage at
maximum light levels.
===============================================================
TESTED OM1 ERRORS (1N34A) in stops at approx EV’s :
194mV @0.409mA EV16 0 stop
165mV @0.197mA EV8 -0.5 stop
125mV @0.100mA EV6.5 -0.35 stop
100mV @0.062mA EV6 -0.2 stop
70mV @0.023mA EV2 -0.1stop
(63-90mV for different diodes at low current)
Tests on 9 , 1N34A diodes from Radio Shack ( part#276-1123 )
Diode voltage @ current
213mV @ 0.558mA
221mV “
216mV “
218mV “
212mV “
210mV “
204mV “
203mV “
206mV “
173 mV @ 0.27mA
175 mV “
165 mV “
168 mV “
182 mV “
173 mV “
185 mV “
177 mV “
235mV @1.100mA
How reproduceable are different types of Diodes?
Ideal Diode for OM1 camera conversion drops about 200mV at 0.5mA
=============================================================
Tests on 5 Schottky, 1Amp power diodes (1N5818)
At 0.52mA voltage drop: 0.127-0.132V
At 0.20mA voltage drop 0.101-0.109V
At 0.05mA voltage drop 0.065-0.070V
===========================================
Test on 4 different Germanium Transistors
Using C-B junction (2N1305) (i.e. used as a diode)
At 0.52mA voltage drop 0.198-0.205V
At 0.20mA voltage drop 0.163-0.172V
At 0.15mA ~0.155 estimated
At 0.10mA 0.15V estimated
At 0.05mA voltage drop 0.127-0.130V
===========================================
Test on 3 different 1N5711’s low power schottky diodes
At 0.52mA voltage drop 0.308-0.325V
At 0.20mA voltage drop 0.295-0.320V
At 0.05mA voltage drop 0.255-0.270V
===========================================
Test on 4 parallel connected 1N5711 schottky diodes
At 0.52mA voltage drop 0.274V
At 0.20mA voltage drop 0.261V
At 0.05mA voltage drop 0.224V
Estimated Errors using a 1.4V Zinc/air "Wein cell")
EV3 0 stop
EV6 -0.1 stop
EV 7 -0.6 stop
EV 16 -0.6 stop
Unfortunetly cell life is very short once trhe cell has been unsealed.
Re[tombo]:
Re[tombo]:
Re[tombo]:
Ясно, спасибо. Погрешность до 0.4EV, в принципе, не критична для негатива. Тогда жить можно.
Re[tombo]:
Как видно из последней таблицы, изменение чувствительности экспонометра происходит нелинейно.
Т.е. конечно простая замена батарейки современной не является панацеей на все случаи жизни. Что же делать?
Паяльник в руки. Или внешний экспонометр.
На ошибку в 0.5 ступени вообще можно начхать.
Т.е. конечно простая замена батарейки современной не является панацеей на все случаи жизни. Что же делать?
Паяльник в руки. Или внешний экспонометр.
На ошибку в 0.5 ступени вообще можно начхать.
